July 2019

In May I was lucky enough to hike down into Havasu Canyon on the Havasupai Reservation in the western part of the Grand Canyon with my husband and two daughters. Getting a permit is no easy task so I indeed felt very lucky. The first mile and a half of the trail are switchbacks with sweeping views of the canyon. After that it was a gentle slope downward for 6 1/2 miles to the town of Supai. This part of the hike took us along a riverbed as the canyon slowly narrowed and the walls enclosed us. There were many places along the way where we took the paths above the riverbed through what looked like professionally landscaped prickly pear cactus and flowering plants. Throughout the trip the prickly pears had delicate blooms which was a treat to the eyes. These little paths were truly beautiful with the canyon walls looming above. Mother Nature certainly knows how to arrange things. Once we got to the village of Supai it was another 2 miles past Little Navajo Falls, to Havasu Falls. Above the falls is a lovely overlook if you are brave enough to look over. It is quite a drop down to the turquoise blue travertine pool below. The trail goes down more steeply beside the falls, so the view was lovely. Just past the falls is the campground which stretches for about a mile to Mooney Falls.

The campground is a little paradise in the midst of the desert. Large cottonwood trees provided shade and places to hang hammocks. Havasu Creek runs right down through the campground with places to pitch tents on either side as well as on islands in the creek. It is nestled in a narrow part of the canyon with tall walls and the creek running through it. People pitch their tents wherever they want, so we found a spot we liked and settled in.

We spent one day exploring the area around Havasu Falls. There is a shallow area with rocks just below the surface of the water that borders the deeper blue pool below the falls. We carefully waded across the rocks to get to the other side. We climbed up over the embankment and down along a riverbed until we came to an old mine shaft up above us. Back at the falls we spent some relaxing time in the sun on the small island in the center of the creek sketching, painting, dipping our feet in the water, taking in the view, and enjoying the sound of the water going over the falls. Travertine ledges create numerous pools of various depths with smaller waterfalls going over the ledges. The color of the water reflecting off the travertine is the most incredible clear aqua. There are tall trees growing on the island where some people hang hammocks.

On day three we made our way down the cliff next to Mooney Falls. This is not for the feint of heart! I really didn’t give myself any time to think about it for fear I would talk myself out of the descent. We climbed down through two narrow tunnels, emerging to a narrow landing and a nearly vertical climb down with chains, ladders, and metal stakes to hold on to. It was a slow process making our way down to the bottom. In places it was slippery from the mist coming off the falls. Once down the view of the nearly 200 foot tall Mooney Falls and the area surrounding the falls was stunning.

We spent a half hour or so exploring the island and the smaller falls beneath Mooney before taking off on the trail to Beaver Falls. I honestly think it was the most beautiful hike I have ever been on and it made the terrifying climb down worth it. The trail follows and crosses the turquoise blue, crystal clear Havasu Creek several times, with countless smaller falls all along the way. The canyon was lush with plant-life. Tall trees shaded the path part of the way, then the valley opened up and we found ourselves walking through a picturesque valley filled with wild grapevines that were shoulder high in places. Later we found ourselves in a more typical desert environment with cacti and moon-flowers blooming along the path. The path takes you up and over another much lower cliff to climb before reaching Beaver Falls. We spent some time wading and swimming in the large pools created by the waterfalls. If the temperature had been ten degrees warmer the water would have felt really nice, but it was only about 70 degrees that day and when the sun went behind clouds it felt much cooler. The climb back up Mooney Falls was made more frightening by the slippery mud that was now on many of the ladder rungs and rock steps from people climbing up with muddy shoes.

On day four we rose bright and early to pack up and prepare for the ten mile hike to hilltop. It was a challenge due to the length of the hike and the fact that it is uphill the entire way, though a gentle slope for the majority of the hike. What made it more challenging was the weather, it started raining and eventually sleeting and hailing on the way out. Not only were we wet and cold, we were worried about flash flooding. By the time we reached hilltop the thermometer on my car said it was 34 degrees, in May! This was not what we were expecting. Going into this adventure we were expecting highs in the 80’s and were worried that the hike out in the sun would be unbearably hot. Instead my teeth were chattering uncontrollably by the time I got to the top.

The phrase I remember saying and hearing from my family most often on this trip was “it looks fake” because it was so beautiful and perfect. It looked like we were on a movie set rather than in a canyon in the desert of Arizona. I still can’t believe how clear and aqua blue the water in Havasu Creek looked and how lush and green it was. This was one of the most memorable four days of my life, right up there with the time I hiked rim to rim in Grand Canyon National Park.

If you are lucky enough to get a permit, please be respectful of this sacred place by leaving no trace. The Havasupai Tribe generously allows visitors to enjoy their beautiful canyon. It is sad to see trash left by ungrateful visitors in this amazing oasis.

I am currently working on an oil painting of Havasu Falls.

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Hiking Trip to Havasupai